Treasures Beneath Xi’an
From Shanghai, we took a plane to Xi’an, home to China’s greatest archaeological treasure: the terra-cotta warriors and horses.
We enjoyed a memorable meal upon our arrival when we visited an ornate theater for a Shui Jiao dumpling dinner. A dumpling dinner in China expresses friendship. We enjoyed assorted steamed dumplings filled with lily root and mushroom, sweet walnuts, pork and sesame duck. Our entertainment was centuries-old dances by delightful young performers.
The following day we visited the UNESCO World Heritage site of the terra-cotta army. Xi’an’s rural landscape is marked by earthen mounds. They are ancient burial sites, and most were raided years ago. However, one remains undisturbed, protected by the Chinese government. It’s that of self-proclaimed Emperor Qin Shi Huang, who built the terra-cotta warriors 2,000 years ago for protection in the afterlife.
Discovered by farmers only 40 years ago, thousands of these warriors are aligned in trenches, with generals leading columns of infantry. Archers, foot soldiers, chariots and horses stand guard, most painstakingly reconstructed after centuries beneath the earth.
“Qin overthrew his mother’s government and started building the warriors when he was 21 years old,” said our local guide, Aaron. “His workers built them continuously for 29 years. In all, there are an estimated 7,000 warriors and horses here.”
Before leaving Xi’an, we walked Muslim Street, a 1,000-year-old cultural remnant of the Silk Road, a trade route that ran for centuries from Europe across Asia and into China. Street vendors and local shoppers crowd this ancient marketplace, offering a fascinating glimpse into local life. Just short of a mile long, Muslim Street is bookended by the Hanguang Gate on one end and the Xicheng Tower on the other.
Heaven in Beijing
We left Xi’an for China’s capital, Beijing, a city of 21 million that hosted the 2008 Summer Olympics. Tiananmen Square was resplendent during our stop due to the National People’s Congress being held in the Great Hall of the People. Huge red flags were flying across the square for this annual Communist Party meeting.
Chairman Mao’s mausoleum is there, as is the National Museum and monuments to World War II and the Domestic War, China’s civil war that lasted from 1927 until 1950 and ended with communist rule.
My favorite stop in Beijing, however, was the Temple of Heaven. Dating to the Ming dynasty in the early 15th century, this massive city park was constructed as a place of sacrifice and rituals for Chinese emperors. Today, it is a recreational gathering place for thousands of residents. It was a glorious spring morning when we visited, and we had lots of time to wander on our own.
There were dozens of impromptu games of hacky sack — enough that several of our group bought the colorful foot bags and played games as well. Many small groups played music, others sang to the leadership of conductors and bands, and old men sat at tables to play games of Chinese chess or Go, which dates to the Zhou dynasty (256 B.C.).
In one prominent intersection, an elegant woman danced in the center of a ring of harmonica players. “ Chinese people love to dance in the public square,” said Leo.
We came upon a marriage market, where men spread profiles of prospective brides and grooms on the pavement. They compared the “credentials” of potential mates for their children.
“If one of their kids is over 26, they begin to worry,” said our local guide, May.
