Maui: Whale Mecca
Aboard the Pacific Whale Foundation’s cruise, I scanned the waters between Maui and Lanai. A mother whale and her offspring swam side by side; gray skin gleamed in the dazzling sunlight. Seconds later, a teenage whale rocketed out of the water. The youngster breached and hung suspended for a moment, like a basketball player relishing air time before a slam dunk. He landed with a dramatic belly flop and quickly disappeared below the surface.
“Humpbacks return to our warm waters to mate, calve and nurse their young,” said the onboard naturalist. “It’s like a school bus giving birth to a pickup truck.”
Each fall, humpbacks migrate approximately 3,500 miles to Hawaii from their summer feeding grounds in Alaska. Researchers estimate that up to 12,000 humpbacks make the trip. Whale season starts in November and peaks January through March. Maui’s community of Lahaina was Hawaii’s capital before 1845 and still has inklings of its former whaling days.
The nonprofit Pacific Whale Foundation hosts the annual Maui Whale Festival, January 30-February 27. Best bets for sightings are narrated whale cruises and coastline stations with viewing scopes. In Kihei, World Whale Day is held on the Saturday of Presidents Day weekend. It kicks off with the jubilant Parade of Whales, and the Made in Maui Artisans Fair features exceptional artwork and crafts.
For avid whale-watchers, the Hawaiian Islands Humpback Whale National Marine Sanctuary Visitor Center in Kihei provides a gold mine of information and educational events. Maui Ocean Center overlooks Maalaea Harbor and showcases marine life and ongoing research for reef fish and green sea turtles.
“During peak season, visitors can spot whales from almost every resort on the south or west coast,” said Kelii Brown, director of public relations and promotions for the Maui Visitors Bureau. “I like to refer to the whales as our most loyal repeat visitors.”
In season, snorkel excursions can quickly morph into whale- and dolphin-spotting trips. It’s not uncommon to see a pod of spinner dolphins envelop the boat and leap and twirl above the glistening water. Gemini Sailing Charters’ catamaran conveniently launches from Kaanapali Beach.
Groups can opt to watch the sunrise or sunset at Haleakala National Park’s 10,023-foot summit, the world’s largest dormant volcano crater. And on the west shore, the Ritz-Carlton Kapalua partners with Jean-Michel Cousteau’s Ambassadors of the Environment. Naturalists lead treks along the resort’s trails, as well as snorkeling and whale-watching excursions.
Lesser-Known Lanai
According to locals, Lanai City has barely changed since the 1950s — not a strip mall or big-box store in sight. Time slows here, and Maui’s bustle becomes a distant memory. Formerly known as the Pineapple Island, it’s now home to two upscale Four Seasons resorts and the simple but comfortable 11-room Hotel Lanai.
Lanai’s 30 miles of blacktopped roads predispose four-wheel-drive Jeeps as the only vehicles for rent. Off-road driving through former pineapple fields took me to Garden of the Gods. Hairpin turns led to deserted Shipwreck Beach.
Opened in 2010, the Lanai Culture and Heritage Center traces the island’s pineapple-growing years to the present with a photography timeline and artifacts. According to Kepa Maly, who established the heritage center, “Lanai is the only intact plantation community left in the islands, and it hasn’t changed much in the last 70 or 80 years.”
Insider Tips
• Hawaii is a year-round destination. Summer spans April through November and is generally warmer and drier, with temperatures averaging 75 to 88 degrees F. Winter, between December and March, is cooler at 68 to 80 degrees F. Trade winds keep things comfortable year-round.
• Direct flights from the U.S. mainland arrive in and depart from Maui, Kauai and Hawaii Island. Many interisland flights connect through Oahu and average 30 to 50 minutes. Daily ferry service connects Maui to Lanai and Molokai.
• If your group has a red-eye flight back to the mainland, plan a relaxing beachside dinner before heading to the airport.
• Shoulder season, late-September through early November and April through early June, may offer lower group hotel rates, based on availability.
• The Department of Agriculture enforces strict rules regarding the exportation of uninspected plants and animals and requires a declaration form for each person arriving in Hawaii. When departing, luggage must pass a preflight screening for uninspected fruits and plants. Items purchased at the airport or mailed home from local vendors are inspected for you.
• The islands’ ABC Stores sell T-shirts, macadamia nut treats and souvenirs at good prices.
for more information contact the Hawaii Tourism Authority at 800-464-2924 or go to wwww.gohawaii.com
